Bio-fabricated textiles are just one of many applications in the age of biofabrication. Scientists and designers have collaborated to explore applications from a wide range of biological factories: yeast, bacteria, mycelium, and algae. With the fashion industry accounting for 4% of global greenhouse gas emissions and 38% of those coming from raw material production, the potential of cleaner production methods in biofabrication is exciting.[i] Modern Meadow founder Andras Forgacs believes that the falling costs of biofabrication toolkits are making biofabrication more accessible and cheaper. We can see that in the growing number of sustainable fashion startups over the past 10 years. Materials science start-ups Algaeing and Modern Meadow, respectively, are experimenting with the use of algae and bio-based polymers.

The use of algae has been diverse, serving as a resource for making dyes and fibers. Algaeing founder Renana Krebs aims to create a biodegradable, non-toxic, and energy-efficient textile that uses less water.[ii] Meanwhile, Forgacs has patented a biotechnology to create sustainable fabrics combining bio-based polymers with proteins.[iii] Partnering with Italian textile supplier, Limonta, Forgacs aims to deliver sustainably designed products. Modern Meadow has already shown what the potential of biofabrication can be, showcasing a leather alternative t-shirt constructed from collagen protein derived from yeast. Meanwhile, the production of algae-based textiles is still limited. [iv]

As with most biofabricated solutions, these technologies are in a nascent stage, with a heavy focus on R&D. Both Algaeing and Modern Meadow have run through different iterations, exploring new technologies. Algaeing now develops “scalable solutions for manufacturing fibers and dyeing fabrics.”[v] The Algaeing-patented technology is versatile, tackling 3 major pain points for the fashion industry: reliance on freshwater, use of pesticides, and energy use. As an alternative to traditional textile manufacturing methods that expose workers, albeit with safety guidelines in place, to carcinogenic dyes and solvents, the company’s algae-based dye Algadye 3.0 is reportedly non-toxic and allergen-free.[vi] Algaeing’s technology shows great potential for cleaner textile production in the future. According to the World Economic Forum, current methods of textile dyeing are responsible for being the 2nd largest polluter of water, with textile companies dumping millions of gallons of toxic chemical water left after the dyeing process into our waterways. This harms our access to clean water, and harms biodiversity.[vii]

Algaeing promises a solution that is 100% biodegradable, produces zero waste, and is free of harmful chemicals and fertilizers.[viii] Their threads are composed of two simple components: algae and cellulose.[ix] Its Algae is supplied by partner-company Algatech that grows its algae in indoor farms that reduce the need for agricultural land and chemical fertilizers. Arguably the biggest plus point for Algaeing fibers is that it reportedly uses 80% less water than what goes into the production of traditional cotton. Whereas traditional cotton production consumes 2700 liters of fresh water for a single t-shirt, which is equivalent to 2 years’ worth of a person’s drinking water, Algaeing’s technology shows that the industry is aware of its consumption.[x] With growing global water insecurity, technology that preserves water usage should be welcomed.

Despite its inherent advantages, Algae on its own is not a tough material that can withstand the elements. Combining the strengths of cellulose and algae, designers and scientists can develop a material that is tough and resilient, while also being eco-friendly and biodegradable. Algae-based materials may also have applications beyond fashion apparel. Researchers are exploring Algae’s special photosynthetic properties that could make it perfect for skin grafts or artificial leaves.[xi] University of Rochester scientist, Anne S. Mayer, believes the oxygen generated in the photosynthetic process could kick-start a healing process on wounds. Additionally, she sees artificial Algae leaves as a method of carbon capture in places where plants don’t grow well.[xii] The example of algae showcases the potential of innovations in biofabrication to challenge norms across industries, and it underscores the importance of continued research and investment into these solutions.

Andras Forgacs’ Modern Meadow is an example of a startup that accumulated unprecedented media attention, and rightly so, but like most biomaterials startups, the company continues to research, develop, and reinvent itself and its technologies with new information. Transitioning from growing skin cells for creating leather, Modern Meadow developed a process to ferment and brew collagen directly from yeast.[xiii] Modern Meadow represents a growing set of materials science startups that are experimenting with lab-grown leathers, competing in a leather-alternative space that has been dominated by vegan leather. However, vegan leather is anything but sustainable or biodegradable, with most being made from plastic polymers.[xiv] Modern Meadow’s product is indistinguishable from traditional leather, but the company’s unique value is its ability to manipulate the liquid collagen into a variety of leather products from “a paper-thin leather that can be poured onto fabric… [or] a thick, pebbled hide that could form a handbag.”[xv] Since 2017, the startup has transitioned to an entirely new method of biofabrication. Now the company is developing a marketable product made from “plant-derived proteins.”[xvi]

It is exciting to see the developments in this space, especially given the dire state of the current fashion industry and considering the recent climate reports. However, with renewed interest in sustainable solutions, companies and the media covering biofabrication innovations must be transparent about the shortcomings of new technologies. Greenwashing – disinformation to present an environmentally responsible public image – does more harm than good to public confidence in sustainable solutions. The reality is that no companies have yet developed a truly biodegradable or sustainable product, but the developments are promising. The challenge companies like Algaeing, Modern Meadow and others have is developing products that retain performance and durability that are important to consumers. Algaeing’s algae and cellulose combined solutions are inspiring developments, especially if the company’s products can live up to their potential sustainable promises, while Modern Meadow’s creation of a leather alternative from biopolymers is a welcome sight. The jury is still out on whether these solutions will live up to their promises, but the production of these fabrics will reveal if the fashion industry is truly heading in the right direction.

[i] https://fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/Understanding-Bio-Material-Innovations-Report.pdf

[ii] https://www.cnn.com/style/article/israel-algae-environment-textiles-spc-intl-hnk/index.html

[iii] https://www.modernmeadow.com/modern-meadow-materials#discover-bio-alloy

[iv] https://www.sustainablefashion.earth/type/innovation/the-future-of-the-fashion-industry-is-here/

[v] https://www.algaeing.com/

[vi] https://www.cnn.com/style/article/israel-algae-environment-textiles-spc-intl-hnk/index.html

[vii] https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2020/01/fashion-industry-carbon-unsustainable-environment-pollution/

[viii] https://www.algaeing.com/

[ix] https://www.algaeing.com/

[x] https://www.mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/nutrition-and-healthy-eating/in-depth/water/art-20044256#:~:text=So%20how%20much%20fluid%20does,fluids%20a%20day%20for%20women

[xi] https://www.rochester.edu/newscenter/will-your-future-clothes-be-made-of-algae-476562/

[xii] https://www.rochester.edu/newscenter/will-your-future-clothes-be-made-of-algae-476562/

[xiii] https://www.fastcompany.com/40475098/how-modern-meadow-is-fabricating-the-animal-free-leather-of-the-future

[xiv] https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/vegan-leather-sustainability-stella-mccartney

[xv] https://www.fastcompany.com/40475098/how-modern-meadow-is-fabricating-the-animal-free-leather-of-the-future

[xvi] https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/lab-grown-leather

The Future of Fashion & Sustainability | 4 Greener Fabrics

The Future of Fashion & Sustainability | 5 A Circular Fashion Model

The Future of Fashion & Sustainability | 3 A Biofabrication Revolution